The ongoing COVID-19 pandemic has certainly shaped the beauty industry drastically over the past 18 months – the e-commerce push being just one aspect. But as the industry emerged from this difficult period, innovation and new product development had become a top priority. And with that came the increased need for product testing, not only for safety but also for claim validation, said Sam Booth, director of business development at Eurofins Cosmetics and Personal Care UK.
âWe had a natural backlog of what was put on hold; the formulations that people were planning to test in 2020, we ran those tests at a later date. But at the same time, no one slowed down. So they always put their 2021 NPD plans in place and put them to the test â,Booth told CosmeticsDesign-Europe at SCS Formulate 2021 in Coventry, UK earlier this month.
ââ¦ Customers keep telling us about new products they want to test. We have the impression that everyone is very committed and is looking to the future and to the future â,she says.
So, what exactly was the beauty world looking to test out?
Justification of common claims – moisturizer, SPF and anti-aging
What has clearly gained ground, Booth said, is the demand for clinical trials on “main stream”Claims such as moisturizing properties, SPF protection and anti-aging benefits, for example. And that affected a variety of product types, she said, including creams, facial cleansers, and toners, among others.
âPeople understand the importance of these long-standing allegations; they understand the importance of clinical tests to support them â, she says.
And beauty companies were investing in this “in addition to”what they had done in the past, she said.
âWith these ‘back to basics’ claims like hydration, people want real data; they want instrumental data. And this may be the first time they’ve done clinical tests, but they’re starting to look at it and appreciate the importance of it. “
ââ¦ It goes beyond the ingredients and what the ingredients can do; it goes beyond domestic use; it’s more specific – it’s about more direct claims and the need to make that justification in a certain way â, said Booth.
When asked if companies are also looking for data on more specialized claims, she replied: âWe always get requests for the microbiome, but they tend to be quite specialized. “
Beauty Product Makers ‘Very Aware’ of Diversity
Along with this focus on the rationale for long-standing beauty claims, Booth said manufacturers are also focusing heavily on the diversity of these clinical trials. Testing on a range of different phototypes, ages and genders was important, she said, and manufacturers were “very aware” of that.
“What we do is work with our clients and work with our labs to give as much representation as possible (…) What clients want to do is show that inclusion.”
And because Eurofins had a global network of labs, she said if a product was relevant to a specific market like China, it could be tested in that market. “We are not limited to a single laboratory, we have a lot of options”she says.