Once considered a product of particular interest to followers of “natural” herbal skin care, facial oils are now a staple in almost all beauty brands’ lineup: they are compatible with the skin. Most of the other products, effective in nourishing dry and damaged skin, and can give an instant glow to dull faces.
But more recently, facial oils have started to appear in high-end, science-backed skincare lines with the emergence of a new category – clinically active âserum oilsâ. Infused with high-tech ingredients and using the latest advancements in extraction techniques, these next-generation formulations elevate simple facial oil to something capable of more than nourishing.
It’s worth it?
While there are new oils that can rival or surpass the best serums, they come at a price. So how do you know you’re not overpaying? âThe main benefit of facial oil is its omega fatty acid content,â says Georgie Cleeve, founder of Oskia Skincare. says Georgie Cleeve, founder of Oskia Skincare. “The skin barrier is – among other things – made up of fatty acids, so the addition of a vegetable oil rich in fatty acids is an identical reconstitution of the protective outer layer.” But, Georgie points out, an omega is an omega, whether it comes from an expensive or inexpensive plant source. or olive, plus a tiny percentage of the more expensive ones such as cocoa. âThis means that the enticing price tags they may carry are not always justified. Some products cost as much as Â£ 90 for what are essentially basic blends.
And while some oil plants also naturally contain very potent molecules, such as retinoic acid (vitamin A, found in rosehip oil, for example) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C, found in sea buckthorn. ), only by applying as much rigor to the sourcing, extraction and development of an oil as you would a lab-created serum that you can hope to get results.
Know your stuff
As with any skincare purchase – especially one you’re willing to spend – the label deserves a careful reading. The following checklist is a good start; an oil that ticks all the boxes won’t be cheap, but it should be spectacular.
- Which ingredients are at the top of the list?
If âsuperâ seed oils (lingonberry, prickly pear, moringa, chia, baobab, oat, and rosehip) are listed first, you are dealing with a premium product. If the list starts with caprylic / capric triglyceride (a base oil derived from nature but synthesized), your oil is saving money.
- Is it a unique or organic domain?
As with wine and olive oil, a “single property” oil means good traceability, while biological references (essential to avoid contamination by pesticides of essential oils and grape seeds in particular) often mean a best quality.
Bioactives (often derived from algae, algae, and shore plants) elevate your oil to the performance level of serum, while terms such as “clinically proven”, “fat soluble synthetic actives” and “plant cell extracts” natives âshould also inspire confidence.
Oils and plant extracts that survive in extreme environments (Sahara, Kalahari, Andes, Amazonia, seabed) tend to be rich in vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals.
If the packaging talks about extraction methods like cold pressing, steam distillation, or enzymatic and supercritical CO2 extraction, you’ve got a good one.
- Does science hold up?
Can your brand present clinical efficacy trials in vitro (test tube) and in vivo (on skin)? Is there a complex exclusive to the brand that has proven itself? You want to pay more for (expensive) scientific rigor, not for raw materials.
Here is our edition of the best next-generation facial oils available in store now …