Why every brand launches products for sensitive skin – Glossy


On Instagram, the hashtag #sensibleskin has 1.2 million posts. On TikTok, the same hashtag has 210.1 million views. But unlike a trendy new ingredient or makeup hack, sensitive skin isn’t a trend, but rather a skin condition that’s been around forever.

According to dermatologist Dr Josh Zeichner, a it is estimated that 50% of the population has sensitive skin. Although this has always been the case, according to dermatologist Dr Ranella Hirsch, there has been “an increase in the number of people seeking products for sensitive skin” in recent years. That said, even defining sensitive skin can be tricky, due to the “variability between different test methods, [different] geographic experiences and the use of self-declaration as the norm, ”Hirsch said.

In the past year alone, a list of brands have introduced franchises for sensitive skin, and brand new brands have been launched that aim to meet the needs of skin in need of pampering. So why the spike, and why now? There are a few contributing factors. First of all, people are doing more in their routines and using more products on their skin. During their forties, in particular, people experienced skin care in ways they hadn’t before, which in some cases led to the discovery of sensitivity through trial and error. Others have seen their skin struggle from wearing masks or simply from the stressors of a pandemic. Hirsch said that overall there is probably an increase sensitized the skin, defined as “the skin that reacts to a trigger – not so much because of inherent sensitivity, but [due to] the products themselves being harsh and irritating, leaving skin and barrier damage.

For Tata Harper, who launched her brand’s first collection focused on sensitive skin, Superkind, in April, the products meet customer needs. “The reality is that the modern environment we live in is full of stressors and allergens, which can cause more responsive skin. Hormonal changes and high stress levels can also make the skin more sensitized, ”Harper said of the catalyst for the new products. The Softening Cleanser, Fortifying Moisturizer and Radiance Mask were launched in April. In August, the brand added Bio-Barrier eye serum and cream to its line. Products range from $ 86 to $ 130.

Jessica Alba’s Honest Beauty added a sensitive skin category to its line in July 2020. Rodan & Fields launched its Soothe collection in March. GoodSkin ®, a new sensitive skin brand created by Procter & Gamble, debuted in June. And in August, Tatcha launched its Indigo Overnight Repair Serum and Cream, designed to fight redness and dryness, and to help strengthen the skin barrier.

Clients with damaged skin barriers and highly reactive skin “Are absolutely not helped by the [launches] 30% acids for home use – [those products are] crazy. They’re not helped by the stupid arms race either. [to sell products with] the highest percentage of active ingredients. We know that many of these ingredients work best at lower percentages, so it’s even crazier. And what’s craziest is all the silly tendencies on TikTok, ”Hirsch said. Regarding the first point, The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% peel solution is an example.

At P&G, surveys have found that “Over 65% of consumers report experiencing signs of sensitivity such as redness, dryness, dry patches or a tingling / burning / itchy sensation on the skin of the face, and 83% actively seek out skin care products. skin created ‘for sensitive skin’ or ‘fragrance free’, ”said Eric Rose, senior brand manager at Procter & Gamble. GoodSkin MD was launched to be a solution.

GoodSkin ® is a gender neutral brand targeting Millennials (ages 27-40) who describe their skin as sensitive, and this self-rated sensitivity is one of their main considerations when purchasing skin care products. the skin, ”Rose said. The resulting products are formulated without ingredients like parabens, phthalates, synthetic dyes, mineral oils and fragrances.

Pillar of the French pharmacy Avène has always been associated with sensitive skin, but has expanded its portfolio of options over the past 18 months, particularly due to stress-related skin issues and issues like maskne. As an international brand, Avène is aware of the differences in behavior among its customers: “American consumers largely tend to look for harsh, aggressive skin care products that can burn or sting when applied – a signal to some consumers that the products “work”, “said Jacqueline Flam Stokes, director of marketing for Pierre Fabre, owner of Avène.

Although, to some extent, the growth of the category suggests that marketers see a financial opportunity, there are differences between products labeled for sensitive skin. They are, quite simply, more “bland,” Hirsch said. “They often contain ingredients [like] ceramides, glycerin, etc. soothing and repairing the skin barrier.

All of this to say, “You might also find solutions that don’t have a ‘sensitive skin’ label. But the most important thing you can do is figure out who is to blame and stop doing it, ”she said.

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